I just want to share my first surf experience with the whole world, honest and uncensored.
So here it goes – feel free to laugh!
For some unknown reason I have been wanting to try surfing, and on my (private) bucket list it says: “Take surf lessons”. Earlier this year we were in Australia, but time and place never fit our schedule, and I definitely didn’t want to surf with crocs in Darwin. When we had decided on Costa Rica as our next travel destination, I dreamt of taking private surf lessons, but once again it didn’t happen. We did, however, manage to rent a surfboard! So there we were walking towards the beach with the most gigantic surfboard I’ve ever seen. Too big to carry alone so we both had to step in and carry it the couple of hundreds meters down to the ocean. It was high tide, lots of riptides and some waves were huge – and there we were standing, without ANY experience, what so ever, with this HUGE surfboard!
I let Jon go out first (how generous of me, right?), how would I be able to get this huge thing out into the water? It didn’t take too long before it was my turn…
I looked around, we were alone at last and I dragged the surfboard behind me while I fought my way through the waves, one after the other. I stopped when the water reached right over my belly (someone told us to stay in the white water as a newbie), and I did feel a bit like a wimp, standing alone with my enormous board in war with the rips. I was standing there measuring the waves (as the pro surfer I am). There was nothing else to do than to throw myself into it! I laid my body on the board and tried the next wave, again and again, and that wasn’t a problem at all. My problem was that I had no idea on how I should go from there, how to rise and get myself standing. I tried to put my knee up to just feel my balance and it wasn’t bad, not bad at all. But I had to throw my body off the board before it reached the beach (I’m so afraid to break things, especially things that aren’t mine, and that thought was haunting me down while I tried focusing on my surf career).
After minutes struggling with the board we were no longer alone, people started to arrive the beach ready for ‘surf lessons for kids’. I had to throw in the towel and accept defeat, and get my ass out of there!
During the few minutes I was trying out surfing (if we can call it that) I learned a couple of things:
1: The strap was attached to the wrong foot, and I noticed that quite quickly as it was always in my way when “jumping” up on the board (still laying). Or maybe there is not a difference between right and wrong foot? What do I know, right?
2: I didn’t wear suitable swimwear! Yes, I was wearing a bikini, but it would have been so much better to actually wear something that stayed in place (or more correctly held everything where it should be). Just think of how disappointing it would be if I was able to stand up, for just a short second, and if that moment was eternalized by Jon taking a photo in the right moment, me with a big grin and a nip slip! That would have been devastating, because I never could have shown that evidence to anybody, even with how many nipples showing online. That’s just isn’t right. And the plumber crack is not that charming either.
3: Take one surf lesson, minimum!
But I haven’t given up, and I am pretty sure (or at least I hope) that one day I will manage to stand on the surfboard. I just need that private lesson(s)!
Have you tried surfing? How was your first time? Tell us about it in the comment!